Cream, oil, laser, microneedling: what does the science really say?

By a Doctor of Pharmacy, founder of KOUAGA

Type "how to get rid of my stretch marks" into a search engine and you will be flooded with promises. Miracle creams, ancestral oils, homemade remedies, lasers, microneedling, peels... How do you find your way? As a pharmacist, I share with you what studies really say about each approach.

First, a truth that puts everything in perspective

A stretch mark is a scar in the dermis¹. That word changes everything: you cannot erase a scar, you can only fade it or prevent it from appearing. Any solution that promises to make your stretch marks "disappear" for good is going... a long way.

Another crucial point: the age of the stretch mark matters enormously. A recent stretch mark, red or purple, is still inflammatory and far more responsive to any treatment. An old stretch mark, white and settled, is a mature scar that is much harder to change^1,2. Acting early makes all the difference.

Creams and oils

This is the most accessible approach, and the most widely used for prevention. What do the studies say? Let's be honest: for prevention, the overall level of scientific evidence remains low. The major Cochrane reference review concluded that no topical preparation has reliably demonstrated that it prevents stretch marks from appearing³.

That does not mean a cream or an oil is useless. A good treatment hydrates, improves the skin's suppleness and can soothe itching as it stretches, and some active ingredients have shown encouraging results on recent stretch marks². It is real and valuable support, especially when applied early and regularly. The difference between an oil and a cream lies in the types of active ingredients they contain and in their texture. A cream has a water phase that can hold water-soluble active ingredients, acting on different targets. An oil nourishes and softens the surface. Their actions are complementary. Whatever you choose, regular daily application is essential. But beware of products that promise to "erase": what you can expect is support for the skin, not a miracle.

Laser

Laser (fractional laser in particular) is a medical approach, carried out in a clinic. Studies show real efficacy on the appearance of stretch marks, especially recent ones: improved texture and colour, without complete disappearance^1,4.

Its limits are worth knowing: it is expensive, requires several sessions, is generally not covered by health insurance, and is not recommended during pregnancy.

Microneedling

This technique stimulates the skin with micro-perforations to trigger a repair process. Here too, data show a partial improvement in the appearance of stretch marks, comparable or complementary to laser depending on the case^1,4. It is a procedure to entrust to a trained professional, with the same reservations: cost, several sessions, precautions for use.

So what should you actually do?

To sum up what science honestly says: no solution completely erases an established stretch mark. Medical procedures (laser, microneedling) can improve the appearance of stretch marks, especially recent ones. Cosmetic treatments play their most useful role in prevention and early care of recent stretch marks: hydrating, softening and soothing as soon as the skin is put to the test.

This is exactly KOUAGA's philosophy: two treatments designed by a pharmacist, one to support the skin in prevention, the other for recent stretch marks, whose tolerance has been validated for all populations, including pregnancy, breastfeeding and teenagers. No promise to erase, because that would be lying to you. Serious support, at the right time, with safe formulas.

KOUAGA, the stretch mark experts.

Sources

1. Al-Himdani S, Ud-Din S, Gilmore S, Bayat A. Striae distensae: a comprehensive review and evidence-based evaluation of prophylaxis and treatment. Br J Dermatol. 2014;170(3):527-547.
2. Ud-Din S, McGeorge D, Bayat A. Topical management of striae distensae (stretch marks): prevention and therapy of striae rubrae and albae. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016;30(2):211-222.
3. Brennan M, Young G, Devane D. Topical preparations for preventing stretch marks in pregnancy. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2012;(11):CD000066.
4. Elsaie ML, Baumann LS, Elsaaiee LT. Striae distensae (stretch marks) and different modalities of therapy: an update. Dermatol Surg. 2009;35(4):563-573.